M1 M2 retrofit kit confirmed working on i4 LOL | BMW i4 Forum
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M1 M2 retrofit kit confirmed working on i4 LOL

37K views 151 replies 30 participants last post by  Saltkjelen  
#1 · (Edited)
#27 ·
You have the night gold 868 wheels with 255mm width instead of 285mm rear tyre width (factory fitted 868).

Since you add fenders, i guess you also will use spacers?
 
#5 ·
Was it easy to remove shifter? I hate the damn seam on the back I’d like to replace it with carbon. Is this what you bought?
 
#17 ·
So what do the M buttons do....regen strength?
 
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#19 ·
How was the steering wheel trim install on its own? I was thinking about getting a new trim and installing it myself if it's not too hard.
 
#24 ·
Questions, please.
1) Are these the modules of your Aliexpress kit?
Image


2) Which module install in the steering wheel, and in the shifter assembly - #1 or #2 above?
3) These modules look like pnp, what OEM PCB is replaced?
 
#25 ·
Questions, please.
1) Are these the modules of your Aliexpress kit?
View attachment 19742

2) Which module install in the steering wheel, and in the shifter assembly - #1 or #2 above?
3) These modules look like pnp, what OEM PCB is replaced?
That is the receiver module and harness that goes into the shifter console, the transmitter with the PCBs aren’t shown in your picture.
 
#32 ·
Paddles PCB swap - not shown in thread:

OEM PCB (bottom), aftermarket paddles PCB (top):

Image


Swap (two screws on each paddle PCB, white wires OEM PCB):

Image


Reassembly:

Image


Steering wheel trim (OEM bottom, aftermarket top):

Image


Assembly notes:

  • swap is no complication, unscrew and swap. PCB button contacts are rubberized, use the aftermarket contacts and not the OEM as the OEM contacts are inserted with pins into PCB and there are no holes for the pins in the aftermarket PCB. Rubber contacts make the paddles "click" solidly, if the contacts are not installed correctly then paddles will not "click" at all when pressed.
  • aftermarket trim and paddles are not OEM quality, OP was right. OEM parts are a must if you want this mod to look and feel OEM.
  • I just need the car now.
 
#39 ·
Paddles PCB swap - not shown in thread:

OEM PCB (bottom), aftermarket paddles PCB (top):

Assembly notes:

  • swap is no complication, unscrew and swap. PCB button contacts are rubberized, use the aftermarket contacts and not the OEM as the OEM contacts are inserted with pins into PCB and there are no holes for the pins in the aftermarket PCB. Rubber contacts make the paddles "click" solidly, if the contacts are not installed correctly then paddles will not "click" at all when pressed.
  • aftermarket trim and paddles are not OEM quality, OP was right. OEM parts are a must if you want this mod to look and feel OEM.
  • I just need the car now.
Nice! Did you end up ordering the Ali kit linked earlier in the thread or a different kit?
 
#33 ·
I wish there was a video cause even reading i'm finding it confusing how to start haha, I will wait in due time until it's all documented on youtube perfectly
 
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#34 ·
I was just thinking this too!
 
#36 ·
I really should have taken more pictures, but it’s really not that complicated at all, you can see from the 3rd picture on @Technic last post the complete buttons and the transmitter, those all go inside the steering wheel with the split connectors for power and the wrapped transmitter.

And on his previous post, you can see the receiver module and the harness (#1, 2). Those go inside the shifter console and the splitter cable connectors to the shifter module. The hardest part is really removing the airbag, if you can do that you’ll have no problem installing the buttons.
 
#41 ·
I'm just confused as to what parts to order, but I haven't really taken notes as I've gone through the thread. My impression is you need to order the paddles separate from the module? I'm fine with doing everything other than the high voltage system (only because I've never done it), but if I have a tutorial I would be fine.
 
#37 ·
Some of us, at least me, am not good with hardware messing around with stuff. But I can usually stomach it if there's a video I'm watching and pausing in front of me
 
#42 ·
lol, I was doing the same thing. I'm trying to consolidate down a parts list, install steps, and associated tutorials where I can find them. I think this is the parts list, but would love if any other folks have validated. I'll update as any new info comes in
 
#46 · (Edited)
Disconnecting the battery on the i4 has a very specific procedure:

- Find flap on right-side of trunk, remove
Image


- Look for red tab (3) on fusebox:
Image


- Pull red tab out - disconnect 12V battery from HV - and lock:

- Check message on display - confirm 12V battery disconnection:
Image


- Disconnect negative post from 12V battery under hood:
Image


To reconnect 12V to HV battery, follow steps in reverse.
-

If you are unsure that you can follow these instructions then it means that you need a professional installer to install your parts.
 

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#44 ·
I switch every time I see a fast car! 😁 And given I'm usually trying to hit the button in a hurry (while driving), I view this mod as a money saver since it's gonna help me not crash! 😅
 
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#47 ·
Those videos are "private" and unviewable.
 
#53 ·
I'm dragging my feet on this cuz I'd like to also add carbon fiber trim at the same time, but that costs more than the button upgrade. I'm wondering if a stock G80 or G82 wheel (with DAPP) will work the same? That way I could hold on to my stock wheel and switch them back when I sell the car.