I welcome your input and corrections!

 

Thanks for the post, as a new i4 and EV owner, this is what I've been looking for, a definitive all-in-one guide, even if it's considered a simple process. 👍

Would you think adding a "how to reboot" might be helpful?

 

Awesome job. I would just add the main reason for the HV disconnect in the OP, which is disconnecting the 12V battery. To be specific, ANY functional 12V battery disconnect requires this procedure.

 

Good clarification. I've edited the title and added a note about this.

Thanks for the post, as a new i4 and EV owner, this is what I've been looking for, a definitive all-in-one guide, even if it's considered a simple process. 👍

Would you think adding a "how to reboot" might be helpful?

@ssh has a good checklist for this:
https://www.i4talk.com/posts/231724/

 

I indeed saw "disconnect/connect battery" (includes HV cutoff per everyone's knowledge by now) in the service manual for the center console shifter.
edit: I think the entire car will jump up awake if we press or accidentally press the buttons around the idrive knob while handling that shifter plate/block.

My new/slightly different question: Do we need to disconnect the battery/HV before removing the trim panel labeled (2) inside the center console storage compartment in the picture below? Have to unplug the 3 harnesses labeled (1) for the USB and LED/light here. Thinking not necessary since I did not see a disconnect battery here. At most just wait many minutes until the cars shuts down first(?)

 

Ha! I'm looking to do the same thing, replacing the single USB port with a dual. But I couldn't get the plugs loose or the USB port itself off of the trim. If you get them off, please let me know how you managed 😁

 

Moderator:

Can we keep this on topic please? There are other discussions that cover retrofitting USB ports. This is about disconnecting the HV!

 

You don't need to top up Washer Fluid yourself - it is part of the bi-yearly service.
(They need to do something in the 90 minutes service)

Does the Kia require registering of 12v battery after replacement - most German cars requires that - so not a simple diy job anymore.

Fusecard in i4 is interesting - most common fuse to replace is 12V aux. Very easy to short out with some keys etc. After an hour looking for the broken fuse in front fuse-box. I discovered that front 12V aux is fused in the. rear fusebox, and that is a five minutes comfortable job while sitting in the rear of the car. Good idea to have a small 20A spear fuse - you might need it to power the emergency tire kit. (one fuse blown, both 12V aux is out)

 

Still waiting on my shifter kit so have yet to actually put this to practice.

@cruzer666 When you did your shifter replacement, did you verify in Diagnostic mode that HV was disconnected? Any other deviation from the steps above?

 

@cruzer666 When you did your shifter replacement, did you verify in Diagnostic mode that HV was disconnected? Any other deviation from the steps above?

When you disconnect, you get a message on the main iDrive screen that says “HV Battery Disconnected”, can’t miss it.

 

Finally got around to installing the crystal kit earlier today. All in all a success but took much longer than expected, mostly because I double and triple checked every step of the way. I really didn't want to risk frying any electronics (or myself for that matter). Also didn't help that my OCD triggered big time in getting the multimedia knob perfectly centered 😉

As for the HV disconnect/connect procedure, it mostly went smoothly and according to plan.
I took extra care in making sure the car was really in deep sleep between the different steps. After pulling the HV plug the car didn't react at all which kind of surprised me. Did the triple press diagnostic start and then it gave me the expected error messages. (It REALLY wanted me to call roadside assistance).

After the installation I reconnected the 12 volt battery and as soon as the battery terminal touched the plug the car came to life. Wasn't really expecting that but makes sense I guess.
Out of an abundance of caution I waited another 10 min for deep sleep before reinserting the HV plug.

I did get a Parking assist error message that persisted even after 3 reboots but after about 45 min of letting the car just sit, that was gone too.

 

To confirm, any time you are planning to disconnect the 12v battery, you must disconnect the high voltage system first?

 

This is specified in the OP (first post of this thread).

 

I am installing an amp and sub, and i followed the process of disconnecting the HV connector before the 12V. I have reconnected 12V but the green HV connector WILL NOT push in. It is just stuck. What is going on?

 

Sorry…just haven’t heard about needing to disconnect the HV battery in order to disconnect the 12V battery before. The Chevy Volt, for example, doesn’t require this. And I’ve seen a video with an amplifier install in the BMW i4 that missed this step. This is good to know.

 

We’ve also seen people (on this forum) that didn’t do the HV disconnect prior to 12V and ended paying thousands in repairs.

I don’t know about Volt, but most EVs have HV contactors and modules that need a proper shutdown procedure. In the best case scenario it will throw some faults, worst case scenario is costly repairs.

 

Saw one i4 video like that too. The guy that didn't disconnect it is probably a pro. May be pressing down the big connector/cable to maintain constant 12V electric power/contact, and not afraid of the giant spark!

 

I think this might be the video some folks watch and use as reference to not having to disconnect the HV/12v. I questioned that as well when I first joined the forum and watched it as part of the larger HK upgrade thread as he shows the HV disconnect, but puts it to the side and carries on.

It does seem the guy knows what he's doing, and does put pressure down on the big cable as he's piggybacking the new connection (oddly at 7:41 you see the car is plugged in as well), though when he's about to screw win the new connection (w/o the fuse) connection, he does do a double take at 12:32 and 12:37 to the front of the car as if thinking "did something pop?"

 

Ha!! Good luck!! Keep trying. There's some youtube videos on which small tab to lift (use a small screwdriver) before pressing it in. Looks easy in the videos but these videos don't help... took me a long time but eventually it'll fit. I think I had to tilt down the loose/sliding part a little while lifting the tab and then it will fit.

 

Yep. I had to tip the red locking latch to put it back in while sticking a screw driver into the green slot to keep the locking tab open.. Such a weird design.

 

But why disconnect 12v just to install a amplifier.
Easy to add a fused (with no fuse at install time) cable to rear fusebox without turning of 12 Volt.

 

And in fact, if you use a fuse tap on one of the existing fuses (and there are some unused ones to choose from so no risk of overloading anything existing), the risk is more or less zero.

 

As @cruzer666 said, some have not done the disconnect steps and ended up paying for it, and some have gotten away with it. That's why many write-ups, guides, and posts here and in other forums tell you to do anything at your own risk. So you do you.

Even in an ICE car, disconnecting the 12v battery is recommended anytime audio work is to be done, simply because of the risk of a short happening and screwing things up. Does everyone do it? No. Now, I've certainly installed my HU and amp in my ICE SUV without disconnecting the 12v battery, and it was fine, but it's also a 20-year old SUV without as much going on. However, when I get around to installing the amp in my i4, you bet I'm following the HV disconnect steps.

 

I think all modern European cars are recommended to not disconnect 12 Volt battery when not absolutely needed. Instead remove relevant fuses. Even battery replacement is recommended with a parallel battery, or a "charger" so that not all electronics must be reprogrammed, and fault codes cleared.

As long as you don't do anything stupid - it is safe to just add an extra wire to front or rear fusebox intake - without removing it. Wire should of course have in-line fuse (removed at install time).

 

^this xyr's also a dare devil pro installer!!

Technic and I quietly added an anderson connector/plug so that we can now plug/unplug amps everyday without messing with the battery disconnect. It's semi-hiding in his HK Notes thread message 1 picture 7.

 

Only in old ICE cars

Interesting....I'll have to find this easter egg, of course after I get the time and guts to install my amp

 

Here's the part... https://a.co/d/2530Saq
I have the black one. They have a few different colors/specs. Some are larger ampere/sizes too. Be sure it says Anderson on it, not Angel or somebody's name lol

 

HA! I see it, very subtly sitting there. So basically this is like an "in-line disconnect", one side to the fused power and ground, and the other side to the amp (or whatever device is connected), so it's just a matter of disconnecting that if you want to change or upgrade the device right?

 

Yeah correct that's what it is.
Connectors on both sides the same. We flip one upside down and then rotate it 180 degrees and voila.... the polarity will magically match.

 

Oh yes he's most definitely a pro and we can see him hot plugging it like you mentioned in that video.

 

The fuse taps are ok/convenient for small devices (radar detector, dash cam, etc 1A or 3A items). For high powered items (30A to 150A or more) normally we'll have to connect to a larger main supply line (everyone except the famous youtube/internet stars must disconnect the HV first ha ha).

 

I guess it depends on the power of the amp. I fitted only a 100W amp, which is max 10A so I didn't need mega thick cabling or a separate tap to the 12V supply.

 

For those who have struggled to re-insert the HV isolation plug (like me!), this little video explains how to do it properly!

 

For those who have struggled to re-insert the HV isolation plug (like me!), this little video explains how to do it properly!

I struggled with this as well, I've mentioned this in my retrofit thread, but a video is way better. I'll include this in the OP (hopefully @Phlox doesn't mind) and my thread as well. Thanks for posting.

 

This is good and clearer to understand (for me), for when I eventually get to install my 3-months-sitting-on-the-shelf amp!

 

Excuse me...... pls hurry

 

To my credit, I did install the center channel speaker a couple of weeks ago... without disconnecting any power! I'm still alive, so...

 

Hmmm... is that a USB center channel speaker that you're hot plugging there......?

 

I invoke my fifth amendment privilege against self-incrimination and respectfully decline to answer your question.

Sunday is supposed to be cooler in the morning, I've actually moved the amp and door speakers from the shelf, to the foyer table with all the install accessories and such, so one step closer to trying out this HV disconnect dealio. At least the door speaker installation seems straightforward enough.