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It's a close up photo, I purposely made sure to capture the line. In a different photo, you simply cannot see it:

View attachment 16130

The reason: I've always done it that way - the first 18" on the hood gets 99% of the damage I'm trying to defend against thus the partial coverage. The other thing I considered is removal of the full hood would be a pain compared to the partial. I've taken off PPF before, it's not fun. Depending on the formulation of the PPF, discoloration may occur and you will eventually have to redo at around 5-6yrs. It's more apparent on white paint, though.
Much better here.(y)
 

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2022 i4 e40, Tanzanite w/ Mocha Interior
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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Wow, can’t help but notice that most people with scratches, chips, and dings on this thread have Tanzanite! Unlucky color? I hope not, because it’s gorgeous. Maybe other colors hide scratches and dings better? Or Tanzanite owners notice/care more because they spent extra?
The chip in my door probably isn't noticeable to anyone other than me. But I saw it immediately when walking to my car. I ordered some touch-up paint from BMW, so I'll see how it is once it arrives.

Slightly off tangent, but the shipping on the touch-up paint was almost $30! I guess it would get hand delivered in an i7, the package safely buckled into the backseat. I chose to pick it up, instead.
 

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2022 i4 eDrive40 MSport TBII
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Wow, can’t help but notice that most people with scratches, chips, and dings on this thread have Tanzanite! Unlucky color? I hope not, because it’s gorgeous. Maybe other colors hide scratches and dings better? Or Tanzanite owners notice/care more because they spent extra?
Nah. The drivers of Aventurine red, Sapphire Black, and the various grays are just too embarrassed to admit to their accidents.
Tanzanites are getting targeted by jealous b!+(#e$, those folks are wrecking their own cars.

;)
 

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'22 eD'40, Tanzanite, Oyster, 859M A/S, DAPP, PAP, MSport, Ext Shadow, Prem, MSusp, Laser, HK, HUD
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I have only the front 1/3 done on my 330i. I don't think anyone could tell the difference...

View attachment 16087 View attachment 16088
Thinking of getting partial PPF done, similar to what I think you've described as 1/3. Is it better to plan on using the natural body/door seams to hide the edges? I've never had PPF on a car before, so advice is welcome! Also thinking of doing the mirror caps.
 

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'22 eD'40, Tanzanite, Oyster, 859M A/S, DAPP, PAP, MSport, Ext Shadow, Prem, MSusp, Laser, HK, HUD
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I had one in a similar spot on my F92. I used a very reputable guy that does a lot of exxotics and such. He told me the same… but these guys can really be perfectionists and it was a small spot that I could only see at certain angels. He came to me with a full shade and lighting setup and spent a good 30 min or so on the car to get it right, only being able to work on the outside due to the location.
My car has two small chips on the hood that must have happened in transit. The detail guys at the dealer tried to "fix" it, but likely made it worse by adding scratches around the chips. Not sure why they did that, seems pretty clear it needs touch up paint and not "extra" detailing. The dealer has given me the name of a guy to fix it, at their expense. Fingers crossed he is one of those perfectionists!
i always say every new car is looking for a scratch/dent. 🙁

Car Vehicle Automotive lighting Hood Automotive design
Water Blue Liquid Sky Aqua
 

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2020 330i xDrive Portimao Blue
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Thinking of getting partial PPF done, similar to what I think you've described as 1/3. Is it better to plan on using the natural body/door seams to hide the edges? I've never had PPF on a car before, so advice is welcome! Also thinking of doing the mirror caps.
Definitely. I don't like the lines anywhere. @Bimmer100 is an expert and has been generous with his insights on various threads here.

When I had my G20 done, I did the front (hood, quarter panels, bumper, mirrors) and did ceramic on the entire car. With the i4, I'm going to do the entire care in Xpel Fusion which has the ceramic in the PPF (again, thanks to @Bimmer100). I've posted a few photos on here of my 3 year old 330, and it still looks new.
 
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The Xpel dealer down here shows a video of him doing a full PPF on a brand new Porsche GT3. He removed the lights and everything that he could to hide the edges. That would make me nervous.
 
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'22 eD'40, Tanzanite, Oyster, 859M A/S, DAPP, PAP, MSport, Ext Shadow, Prem, MSusp, Laser, HK, HUD
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Definitely. I don't like the lines anywhere. @Bimmer100 is an expert and has been generous with his insights on various threads here.

When I had my G20 done, I did the front (hood, quarter panels, bumper, mirrors) and did ceramic on the entire car. With the i4, I'm going to do the entire care in Xpel Fusion which has the ceramic in the PPF (again, thanks to @Bimmer100). I've posted a few photos on here of my 3 year old 330, and it still looks new.
Thanks @ssh ! I will check out @Bimmer100 s posts!
 
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The Xpel dealer down here shows a video of him doing a full PPF on a brand new Porsche GT3. He removed the lights and everything that he could to hide the edges. That would make me nervous.
If they're reputable and have a lot of good references, there's a high chance he knows what he's doing. The local PPF shop here also has high end cars in various states of disassembly for full wraps. They don't think twice about removing trim and not only that, they also try to cover the painted pillars, inside door jambs, anything that has OE paint so it's quite extensive and a costly exercise.
 

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(2) 2022 i4 M50’s - one is dravit G+fiona full merino/ other is twilight P+ivory full merino,
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The Xpel dealer down here shows a video of him doing a full PPF on a brand new Porsche GT3. He removed the lights and everything that he could to hide the edges. That would make me nervous.
On Porsches, the headlights are super easy to remove and many installers will do this to achieve a little better install. It’s not really that common for headlights to come off cars unless they are getting vinyl wrapped and much less common if doing ppf film. The m50 does not need to have headlights removed as the end he’s of film are hidden well enough. There are a few mildly tricky spots on the m50… the grille with all the rectangular cut out shapes… the stock xpel pattern for this is a bit sloppy imo…. And I spent a few hours redoing this pattern with subtle adjustments of a mm shift here and there to get a perfect fit. Your installer should be talented enough to do this. Imo… If you do this xpel fusion ceramic film, (newest film - and best imo) check over the grille pieces and be sure no film is overlapped onto these rectangles as they will just collect dirt and look ugly…. Talk with the installer and make sure they spend time on fitment for these pieces… and NOT use a razer blade on the car to trim them… they should be adjusted on the computer.
If they have done a couple of these maybe they have adjusted the pattern and saved it for their own use. Fwiw…. The pattern I saved is only avail for the shop that I install film for… it’s not avail to everyone… and as far as I know xpel has not updated this pattern. It’s really the only pieces in the entire kit that I have complaint about…. The rest I would say is 99% excellent fitment and really impressive compared to other patterns they have in their database.

there is slight diff fitment for the emblems on there bumper… If you have the blue ring around the emblem then the hole is larger… imo, it would look better to remove the emblem for this bumper to not have exposed edges around it… but if you have the 50th anniv emblems than fitment is a bit better, and looks pretty good even without removal.

on another note… something to consider… getting clear bra over the carbon fiber center console is a good idea. At least the one piece for the door that covers cup holder and phone charger. I don’t think any other pieces are really needed but that door can get scratched easy if you set anything on it when it’s closed. So it’s super easy to cover….

another suggestion is to do the sill plates. As feet drag over these areas when getting in and out of the car. My wife’s m50 also has the carbon fiber sills and these are covered in clear bra. As well as the painted surfaces of the rocker areas of the sills…the gloss black and painted areas.

Another thing to consider… if you don’t do the full car… no worries. Imo most practical coverage is to do the full hood, full fenders, full bumper, headlights, side mirrors, door cup area and door edges. b pillars are recommended as these scratch badly and super easily!!! But the fusion ceramic film will keep them looking perfect… Also ask for a rear bumper tip (loadingzone in top of bumper. Also would ask to get behind the rear wheels as these spot Of the rear bumper gets trashed in less than 10K miles. If you do a lot of road trips , consider a pillars and above the windshield strip… if you don’t do road trips these areas are not as needed…

imo… if you are to spend this much on a car, plan ahead to get the above ppf done. I’ve been installing film since 1999!!! And tried all the brands of film, constantly trying new films too. But I recommend the newest xpel film that came out this year as an improved version from their ultimate film…. The new film is xpel ultimate fusion ceramic. A ceramic infused version of xpel ultimate. It’s incredibly durable and matches the paint texture very well! It’s self healing from light scratches etc, and the upkeep is excellent/easy to maintain. Don’t do drive through car washes…. Just have your car hand washed with ph balanced for car paint…

I recommend adam’s detailing products, gtechniq detailing products and car pro. These are my personal favorites. But as far as ceramic coatings… they just be compatible and cannot be mix matched… xpel fusion film has their own ceramic formula and based on a silica type ceramic or sio2 aka silicon dioxide… I recommend to just use xpel fusion ceramic product on the film or the ceramic boost spray from xpel to upkeep it about 3-4 times a year. This will keep it slick as all hell…. But do not use other ceramic products that are graphene based, or SIC aka silicon carbide. These will NOT bond to the xpel ultimate fusion film.

fwiw… I use adams Graphene ceramic wheel sealant for the wheels when new!!! Take the wheels off the car and clean them well with the adams wheel cleaner. Polish if needed and prep well with their products in the kit. Their UV based graphene sealant is awesome! You can use the UV flashlight to see the product be applied perfectly and entirely without missing spots… the product is super strong too. Their graphene tire sealant is awesome too!!! Clean the rubber super super well first!’ New tires have a nasty waxy like substance on them from new and all this must be scrubbed off throughout and exposed clean rubber and very dry too… then the graphene sealant can be applied for a durable coating that will last around 4 months or more. It will look like nice satin finish with clean deep and natural finish.

I wrapped the roof, drip rails with a product called flexiShield cosmetic ppf film… gloss black. It’s a tpu based product with real paint in the film. It’s self healing and really looks like paint! Does not look like vinyl which has ugly texture and no depth. With the FlexiShield I use graphene ceramic sealant on it since it’s not treated with any product.

anyhoo… hope this is all helpful. Maybe it will give you some ideas on what can be done with your car. Let me know if anyone has any questions. I’m happy to help.
hope people will take it seriously and get their car protected before it’s too late. Imo get it done immediately! Even a few hundred miles is toooooo late and will have several chips if you wait. It’s a major relief to have ppf film out on first!!’ If you must budget… don’t waste Your money in things like tint, wheels, etc… these things are not important as they can be added later… ppf should always be done first!!! As your paint is naked and exposed to the elements. And you only get one chance to preserve it!!

tint does not matter if you do it many months later etc etc… hope this makes sense. I know ppf is expensive… so figure saving up 2-3K for the coverage I mentioned above. Doing a full car is about double this!!! And not really needed but can be done!!
For most people the coverage I mentioned is highly recommended and practical
 

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'22 eD'40, Tanzanite, Oyster, 859M A/S, DAPP, PAP, MSport, Ext Shadow, Prem, MSusp, Laser, HK, HUD
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91 Posts
On Porsches, the headlights are super easy to remove and many installers will do this to achieve a little better install. It’s not really that common for headlights to come off cars unless they are getting vinyl wrapped and much less common if doing ppf film. The m50 does not need to have headlights removed as the end he’s of film are hidden well enough. There are a few mildly tricky spots on the m50… the grille with all the rectangular cut out shapes… the stock xpel pattern for this is a bit sloppy imo…. And I spent a few hours redoing this pattern with subtle adjustments of a mm shift here and there to get a perfect fit. Your installer should be talented enough to do this. Imo… If you do this xpel fusion ceramic film, (newest film - and best imo) check over the grille pieces and be sure no film is overlapped onto these rectangles as they will just collect dirt and look ugly…. Talk with the installer and make sure they spend time on fitment for these pieces… and NOT use a razer blade on the car to trim them… they should be adjusted on the computer.
If they have done a couple of these maybe they have adjusted the pattern and saved it for their own use. Fwiw…. The pattern I saved is only avail for the shop that I install film for… it’s not avail to everyone… and as far as I know xpel has not updated this pattern. It’s really the only pieces in the entire kit that I have complaint about…. The rest I would say is 99% excellent fitment and really impressive compared to other patterns they have in their database.

there is slight diff fitment for the emblems on there bumper… If you have the blue ring around the emblem then the hole is larger… imo, it would look better to remove the emblem for this bumper to not have exposed edges around it… but if you have the 50th anniv emblems than fitment is a bit better, and looks pretty good even without removal.

on another note… something to consider… getting clear bra over the carbon fiber center console is a good idea. At least the one piece for the door that covers cup holder and phone charger. I don’t think any other pieces are really needed but that door can get scratched easy if you set anything on it when it’s closed. So it’s super easy to cover….

another suggestion is to do the sill plates. As feet drag over these areas when getting in and out of the car. My wife’s m50 also has the carbon fiber sills and these are covered in clear bra. As well as the painted surfaces of the rocker areas of the sills…the gloss black and painted areas.

Another thing to consider… if you don’t do the full car… no worries. Imo most practical coverage is to do the full hood, full fenders, full bumper, headlights, side mirrors, door cup area and door edges. b pillars are recommended as these scratch badly and super easily!!! But the fusion ceramic film will keep them looking perfect… Also ask for a rear bumper tip (loadingzone in top of bumper. Also would ask to get behind the rear wheels as these spot Of the rear bumper gets trashed in less than 10K miles. If you do a lot of road trips , consider a pillars and above the windshield strip… if you don’t do road trips these areas are not as needed…

imo… if you are to spend this much on a car, plan ahead to get the above ppf done. I’ve been installing film since 1999!!! And tried all the brands of film, constantly trying new films too. But I recommend the newest xpel film that came out this year as an improved version from their ultimate film…. The new film is xpel ultimate fusion ceramic. A ceramic infused version of xpel ultimate. It’s incredibly durable and matches the paint texture very well! It’s self healing from light scratches etc, and the upkeep is excellent/easy to maintain. Don’t do drive through car washes…. Just have your car hand washed with ph balanced for car paint…

I recommend adam’s detailing products, gtechniq detailing products and car pro. These are my personal favorites. But as far as ceramic coatings… they just be compatible and cannot be mix matched… xpel fusion film has their own ceramic formula and based on a silica type ceramic or sio2 aka silicon dioxide… I recommend to just use xpel fusion ceramic product on the film or the ceramic boost spray from xpel to upkeep it about 3-4 times a year. This will keep it slick as all hell…. But do not use other ceramic products that are graphene based, or SIC aka silicon carbide. These will NOT bond to the xpel ultimate fusion film.

fwiw… I use adams Graphene ceramic wheel sealant for the wheels when new!!! Take the wheels off the car and clean them well with the adams wheel cleaner. Polish if needed and prep well with their products in the kit. Their UV based graphene sealant is awesome! You can use the UV flashlight to see the product be applied perfectly and entirely without missing spots… the product is super strong too. Their graphene tire sealant is awesome too!!! Clean the rubber super super well first!’ New tires have a nasty waxy like substance on them from new and all this must be scrubbed off throughout and exposed clean rubber and very dry too… then the graphene sealant can be applied for a durable coating that will last around 4 months or more. It will look like nice satin finish with clean deep and natural finish.

I wrapped the roof, drip rails with a product called flexiShield cosmetic ppf film… gloss black. It’s a tpu based product with real paint in the film. It’s self healing and really looks like paint! Does not look like vinyl which has ugly texture and no depth. With the FlexiShield I use graphene ceramic sealant on it since it’s not treated with any product.

anyhoo… hope this is all helpful. Maybe it will give you some ideas on what can be done with your car. Let me know if anyone has any questions. I’m happy to help.
hope people will take it seriously and get their car protected before it’s too late. Imo get it done immediately! Even a few hundred miles is toooooo late and will have several chips if you wait. It’s a major relief to have ppf film out on first!!’ If you must budget… don’t waste Your money in things like tint, wheels, etc… these things are not important as they can be added later… ppf should always be done first!!! As your paint is naked and exposed to the elements. And you only get one chance to preserve it!!

tint does not matter if you do it many months later etc etc… hope this makes sense. I know ppf is expensive… so figure saving up 2-3K for the coverage I mentioned above. Doing a full car is about double this!!! And not really needed but can be done!!
For most people the coverage I mentioned is highly recommended and practical
Super helpful! Thanks for taking the time to share your experience and knowledge!!!
 

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Ordered 2023 M50
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On Porsches, the headlights are super easy to remove and many installers will do this to achieve a little better install. It’s not really that common for headlights to come off cars unless they are getting vinyl wrapped and much less common if doing ppf film. The m50 does not need to have headlights removed as the end he’s of film are hidden well enough. There are a few mildly tricky spots on the m50… the grille with all the rectangular cut out shapes… the stock xpel pattern for this is a bit sloppy imo…. And I spent a few hours redoing this pattern with subtle adjustments of a mm shift here and there to get a perfect fit. Your installer should be talented enough to do this. Imo… If you do this xpel fusion ceramic film, (newest film - and best imo) check over the grille pieces and be sure no film is overlapped onto these rectangles as they will just collect dirt and look ugly…. Talk with the installer and make sure they spend time on fitment for these pieces… and NOT use a razer blade on the car to trim them… they should be adjusted on the computer.
If they have done a couple of these maybe they have adjusted the pattern and saved it for their own use. Fwiw…. The pattern I saved is only avail for the shop that I install film for… it’s not avail to everyone… and as far as I know xpel has not updated this pattern. It’s really the only pieces in the entire kit that I have complaint about…. The rest I would say is 99% excellent fitment and really impressive compared to other patterns they have in their database.

there is slight diff fitment for the emblems on there bumper… If you have the blue ring around the emblem then the hole is larger… imo, it would look better to remove the emblem for this bumper to not have exposed edges around it… but if you have the 50th anniv emblems than fitment is a bit better, and looks pretty good even without removal.

on another note… something to consider… getting clear bra over the carbon fiber center console is a good idea. At least the one piece for the door that covers cup holder and phone charger. I don’t think any other pieces are really needed but that door can get scratched easy if you set anything on it when it’s closed. So it’s super easy to cover….

another suggestion is to do the sill plates. As feet drag over these areas when getting in and out of the car. My wife’s m50 also has the carbon fiber sills and these are covered in clear bra. As well as the painted surfaces of the rocker areas of the sills…the gloss black and painted areas.

Another thing to consider… if you don’t do the full car… no worries. Imo most practical coverage is to do the full hood, full fenders, full bumper, headlights, side mirrors, door cup area and door edges. b pillars are recommended as these scratch badly and super easily!!! But the fusion ceramic film will keep them looking perfect… Also ask for a rear bumper tip (loadingzone in top of bumper. Also would ask to get behind the rear wheels as these spot Of the rear bumper gets trashed in less than 10K miles. If you do a lot of road trips , consider a pillars and above the windshield strip… if you don’t do road trips these areas are not as needed…

imo… if you are to spend this much on a car, plan ahead to get the above ppf done. I’ve been installing film since 1999!!! And tried all the brands of film, constantly trying new films too. But I recommend the newest xpel film that came out this year as an improved version from their ultimate film…. The new film is xpel ultimate fusion ceramic. A ceramic infused version of xpel ultimate. It’s incredibly durable and matches the paint texture very well! It’s self healing from light scratches etc, and the upkeep is excellent/easy to maintain. Don’t do drive through car washes…. Just have your car hand washed with ph balanced for car paint…

I recommend adam’s detailing products, gtechniq detailing products and car pro. These are my personal favorites. But as far as ceramic coatings… they just be compatible and cannot be mix matched… xpel fusion film has their own ceramic formula and based on a silica type ceramic or sio2 aka silicon dioxide… I recommend to just use xpel fusion ceramic product on the film or the ceramic boost spray from xpel to upkeep it about 3-4 times a year. This will keep it slick as all hell…. But do not use other ceramic products that are graphene based, or SIC aka silicon carbide. These will NOT bond to the xpel ultimate fusion film.

fwiw… I use adams Graphene ceramic wheel sealant for the wheels when new!!! Take the wheels off the car and clean them well with the adams wheel cleaner. Polish if needed and prep well with their products in the kit. Their UV based graphene sealant is awesome! You can use the UV flashlight to see the product be applied perfectly and entirely without missing spots… the product is super strong too. Their graphene tire sealant is awesome too!!! Clean the rubber super super well first!’ New tires have a nasty waxy like substance on them from new and all this must be scrubbed off throughout and exposed clean rubber and very dry too… then the graphene sealant can be applied for a durable coating that will last around 4 months or more. It will look like nice satin finish with clean deep and natural finish.

I wrapped the roof, drip rails with a product called flexiShield cosmetic ppf film… gloss black. It’s a tpu based product with real paint in the film. It’s self healing and really looks like paint! Does not look like vinyl which has ugly texture and no depth. With the FlexiShield I use graphene ceramic sealant on it since it’s not treated with any product.

anyhoo… hope this is all helpful. Maybe it will give you some ideas on what can be done with your car. Let me know if anyone has any questions. I’m happy to help.
hope people will take it seriously and get their car protected before it’s too late. Imo get it done immediately! Even a few hundred miles is toooooo late and will have several chips if you wait. It’s a major relief to have ppf film out on first!!’ If you must budget… don’t waste Your money in things like tint, wheels, etc… these things are not important as they can be added later… ppf should always be done first!!! As your paint is naked and exposed to the elements. And you only get one chance to preserve it!!

tint does not matter if you do it many months later etc etc… hope this makes sense. I know ppf is expensive… so figure saving up 2-3K for the coverage I mentioned above. Doing a full car is about double this!!! And not really needed but can be done!!
For most people the coverage I mentioned is highly recommended and practical
My concern as I stated earlier was whether or not I could see the difference between the PPF covered and non covered parts. Would the non covered part age differently, etc?
 

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Super Moderator
2020 330i xDrive Portimao Blue
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hope people will take it seriously and get their car protected before it’s too late. Imo get it done immediately! Even a few hundred miles is toooooo late and will have several chips if you wait. It’s a major relief to have ppf film out on first!!’ If you must budget… don’t waste Your money in things like tint, wheels, etc… these things are not important as they can be added later… ppf should always be done first!!! As your paint is naked and exposed to the elements. And you only get one chance to preserve it!!
I agree 100% having done this with my 3-year-old G20. I'll always do this to new cars from here on out. Although I'm going all-in with full PPF this time.
 

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My concern as I stated earlier was whether or not I could see the difference between the PPF covered and non covered parts. Would the non covered part age differently, etc?
I'd suggest using ceramic on the non-covered parts to align them. I cannot tell on my car where the PPF is and where it's not. The entire car got ceramic after the PPF install.
 

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'22 - i4 M50
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My concern as I stated earlier was whether or not I could see the difference between the PPF covered and non covered parts. Would the non covered part age differently, etc?
No on the first part of your question, yes on the second - age will show yellowing, no matter how good the product is or how much chemistry trickery has been put into the urethane material. Almost nothing can protect against yellowing 100%. You can probably count on 7-8 yrs on the latest films, but in my experience they eventually show age and you will either live with it or redo it.
 
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