[LowOnCash]

Nice cars.


According to this not a very big difference :


-------------------------
Biggest issue with 800Volt cars today is that most HPC chargers is 400 Volt - so car must convert resulting in high losses.

Great thread - The Kia EV6 or Iconiq5 charges on either 800 volts or 400 volts chargers - the real clincher is the Kia 800 volt system will charge at a higher rate than 400 volt EV's on the same station. The reason is the Kia has a high efficent 400 to 800 volt converter on board and the since the battery is 800 volts, it develops half the current and heat allowing it to charge more quickly than a 400 volt EV on the same charger.

Regards - Mike

 

[FreshxDough]

Range when fully charged means almost nothing and won't be diagnosed if brought up to the dealer. They cant go charge your car and drive it ~300 miles. If you have a genuine range concern then drive the car from 100% to between %5 and 0 and see how many miles you’re getting and what your average consumption is for that full charge. These numbers are far more important and can be quantified. ICE cars are not rated at their Full tank capacity and electric cars aren't at their full charge capacity. EV vehicle are rated on estimated range, the amount physically travelled, not whats estimated on the dashboard when you fully charge it. I see these concerns often and it would help to change the thought process on what a full battery estimated range means.

 

[LowOnCash]

I'm not sure where you live since the colder the climate the worse the range will display and you'll achieve. I'm in North Georgia where we get down to 20-35 degree temps. Just so you understand you have to work to get 300 miles winter or summer. My I4 40 averages around 250 miles in winter with min use of heat (70-72 with seats on) There's a 99.99% chance your car is perfect, The car computes and records temperature and how you drive to adjust the range display. Just use the car and make sure you fully charge it since that re-sets the 100% mark for the BCM for a more accurate reading. Charge the car fully and go on a 50-100 mile round trip at 55mph then record your Miles / kw range, % etc.

Enjoy the car don't let the range display ruin your experience its fine in summer you'll be even happier with what you see.

Mike

 

[LowOnCash]

EVs Explained: Charging Losses

When adding energy to an EV's battery pack, more is expended than what makes it into the pack. How much varies considerably depending on the electrical output and ambient conditions.

www.caranddriver.com

Actually could be 13% or so! Wow, I really hadn't thought of that but certainly understand it takes power to get those kwh shoved back into those tiny batteries!

So, it would appear that the Auto Manufacturers are using kwh extracted from the battery vs what it takes it to get it in there!

Imagine losing some 10-15% of your gasoline when you filled your car. Evaporation!

So now I need to adjust my data accordingly. KWh measured going into my car are not the number of kwh actually consumed in going down the road. So this is really just yet another parasitic load on the EV Green Train.

So the GOM in my case, which is on based 3.0 miles/kwh using kwh used to charge the vehicle, needs to be adjusted for this loss to better estimate what my range will be.

Therefore it should be more like 3.4 miles/kwh, just as shown by the car!

This is like fuzzy math, but yet another finer point of EV ownership people need to know and understand.

So more like a range of 275 miles for full charge. Pretty much as "advertised".

Thanks @yobro 24!

There is almost no losses that occur in the EV battery since at high voltages 400 volts there is little heat created. Cars like the EV6 are even more efficient, since they use 800 volts they create half the heat and losses of the i4 400 volt system.

Each EV battery is designed with a buffer which prevents the battery from fully discharging and fully charging. This process extends the battery’s health so it maintains capacity. If you were to discharge a lithium battery to 0% and fully charge it to its actual 100% you would be damaging the battery each charge. So manufacturers prevent this from happening. As an example a 100 kw battery might only discharge to 10% and only charge to 90%, however the SOC will show 0-100%.

Therefore when charging you’re only replacing what you used there is no real battery losses. The only small losses that occur is from the cars onboard charger and the wall unit so if your wall unit says it added 50kw it really only added around 48-49kw. When checking range you have to account for these losses.

Once the battery is charged showing 100% (90%) the only losses that occur is when you drive the car which are losses from the inverter to change the DC current to AC and the losses from the motor itself. Regardless modern EVs like the I4 and EV6 are very efficient when compared to gas engines.

regards Mike

 

[i4m50Norway]

This is probably the most popular battery test in Norway :

AVILOO Private - AVILOO

aviloo.com

 

[LowOnCash]

This is probably the most popular battery test in Norway :

AVILOO Private - AVILOO

aviloo.com

What is the cost for this service ?

Mike

 

[i4m50Norway]

in Norway:
NOK 1590/USD 159 for members of Norwegian EV association (EV Norway)
NOK 2160/USD 216 for others

 

[LowOnCash]

Regretfully, BMW has decided to block the OBD port from typical readers such as Vgate and Car scanner.

All my I-3's are wide open - there is hundreds of parameters available with a common Vgate reader and Car scanner, to include showing every cells activity and the entire packs health and hundreds of other parmenters such as when the heaters on, heat pump activity etc.

It appears as if this company has a OBD reader that transmits your I4's data to your phone then to their server, they simply read the health / capacity you phone sent and make their revenue. Where they could really make some revenue is to sell their reader and offer a their own App to finally brake this hold that BMW has imposed. I wrote to one of BMW's top techs I have know for years and was advised that BMW does not want to open data to owners. If fact, if you leave any reader attached to the car, when you lock the car, the alarm goes off. I'm sure the primary reason this is happening is because thieves have discovered a way to steal the car using the OBD port.

Regards - Mike

 

[Nick1970]

Range issue: I got my BMW i4 edrive40 2 weeks back I am getting very less range as expected.
Outside temperature is ~27 degree celsius
19" wheel
A/C is always on while driving

when 74% charge its showing range of 176 miles
Doing maths 100% will be approx: 238 miles

I am not even driving it aggressively. Any idea what I am doing wrong?

View attachment 13749







Update on this: I followed the instructions posted on this site (i.e. I drove at 45 miles/hr on eco mode with B gears On ) Now my range is showing in 280sh range. I also checked the BMW official web site that 19" wheel which my car has, gives range of 282 mi.

View attachment 13885

I have the 19" wheels, and recently did a 100 mile round trip in the UK. Temp outside was about 12 degC. Speeds ranging from 30 mph to 70 ish mph. On cruise as much as possible, and in Eco mode. Averaged 3.6 miles/kWh. That equates to a 288 mile range. I'm expecting a bit more in summer.

 

[Egg360]

Had my eDrive40 mSport for 14 months and 29k miles now. Averaged 3.8m/kWh in that time. When it’s 20+ deg C I often get over 4m/kWh Did 170 mile round trip journey on Friday that came to 4.5m/kWh.
charged at home and was very pleased to see this today… appreciate it won’t stay there long when I go out again but nice to see and also satisfying that 360 miles could be achievable

 

[A_Camera]

Had my eDrive40 mSport for 14 months and 29k miles now. Averaged 3.8m/kWh in that time. When it’s 20+ deg C I often get over 4m/kWh Did 170 mile round trip journey on Friday that came to 4.5m/kWh.
charged at home and was very pleased to see this today… appreciate it won’t stay there long when I go out again but nice to see and also satisfying that 360 miles could be achievable
View attachment 32747

View attachment 32746

That indicates 4.7mi/kWh actually, because the battery is 81kWh net. I have 4mi/kWh for July and August, but the last days the weather was really optimal, so my figures improved to 4.2 - 4.5mi/kWh on my last trips.

 

[Flyingman]

This past month I've noticed a drop in Miles/kwh which I'm attributing to the very high heat. I notice the cooling system running when I return to garage and park, I assume cooling down the batteries. So this is a parasitic load consuming some kws which are not reflected as miles driven. The drop isn't huge but maybe instead of 3.3-3.4miles/kwh I'm getting closer to 3.0-3.1 miles/kwh as per onboard information.

 

[Magicrat]

Wow.......I'm getting 3.8-4.0 this summer with my eDrive49 w/18 inch wheels. Its been in the high 80's-low 90's here. Maybe because I keep the temp at 72 degrees????

 

[Nick1970]

I did a 226 mile round trip on Saturday at around 22 deg C, and averaged 3.9 m/kWh. I was quite happy with this, as most of the journey was at 70mph, and the rest at a mix of 30, 40 & 50.
I have the edrive40 with 19" wheels too. So given the 81kWh battery net, that would give a max of 316. The WLTP for my build is 339 miles, so not quite there, but we all know those figures are pretty much impossible to achieve. I'm just happy to get over 300 to be honest, but it takes careful driving and constant use of cruise control.

 

[holeydonut]

Lol just realized the OP in this thread was complaining about not having much range on his i4. Check this out (2023 eDrive35)... the latest range makes the car almost unusable. Yeah, this has the 19" wheel option, which would have limited the max range to 230 miles.

The car is 1 year old and only has 6,000 miles. Full charge range is around 160 miles (70%). Note: I feel like the app isn't logging the "total distance" correctly each month in these screen grabs though... I've put more than 200 miles in the last 2 months.

And since everyone's going to blame operator error, it's exclusively in Eco Pro or whatever the slow-azz setting is. Car is located in suburban Northern California near San Francisco. This i4 has never seen freezing temperatures. The last two months have been moderate weather. It's not possible to drive quickly since the traffic sucks, and it's a suburban hellscape around here. The car has never seen a public charger ever... always L2 charged at home. Oh, and I left the pizza-wedges on the wheels.

The car wasn't always like this... it was pretty good up until about March. Prior to this, I was getting a 100 mile round trip commute in with 50% charge left. But since then, the range just fell off a cliff. This was determined "normal degradation" by my friendly BMW dealership. They recommended stop having a lead foot and I shouldn't have gotten an e35 if I wanted range over 200 miles since this type of degradation is to be expected.

Here's the proof of this alleged lead foot, they said if I wanted 200 miles range on an eDrive35, I'd need to do better than 50th percentile.

 

[Elle BMW]

I think there is a place you can check the battery capacity. Might be in My Garage and get the car data? Not sure. I think it takes about hours or so to get the data. Maybe get that and see what your battery capacity is?

 

[colnago1331]

Note: I feel like the app isn't logging the "total distance" correctly each month in these screen grabs though... I've put more than 200 miles in the last 2 months.

Is the app running on your phone every time you drive the car? the app only records trips if it's running. (It can be running the background and with the phone locked; it just has to be running.)

ETA: NM - I'm wrong about this (see below).

 

[srbs73]

Is the app running on your phone every time you drive the car? the app only records trips if it's running. (It can be running the background and with the phone locked; it just has to be running.)

Are you sure? I think the app is dumb and the car is sending the data back to their servers.

 

[colnago1331]

Are you sure? I think the app is dumb and the car is sending the data back to their servers.

I 99.9% sure. In looking at my trips from Sunday, for example, I see a trip from a destination back to home, but I don't see the original trip from home to the destination. And I didn't have the app running during that first leg.

ETA: NM - I'm wrong about this (see below).

 

[First EV]

I 99.9% sure. In looking at my trips from Sunday, for example, I see a trip from a destination back to home, but I don't see the original trip from home to the destination. And I didn't have the app running during that first leg.

This is absolutely not true because when my car was in for service for 2.5 months I was tracking how many test drives they took on my phone. The only thing needed is that the account logged into the car is the same account logged in to the app. I don't see my spouse's drives in my app and if anyone uses the guest profile it doesn't record the drive anywhere.