[gunnerx]

Really thinking about doing this more and more. Just seems a lot more convenient instead of looking down at the center console all the time to switch modes.

 

[Fayt349]

Really thinking about doing this more and more. Just seems a lot more convenient instead of looking down at the center console all the time to switch modes.

me too but unless I have a clear coherent set and instructions in chronological order, and exactly what I need to buy. Or just a youtube video, I'm not doing it

 

[gunnerx]

me too but unless I have a clear coherent set and instructions in chronological order, and exactly what I need to buy. Or just a youtube video, I'm not doing it

Maybe @Techwhiz1 can provide it.

 

[Techwhiz1]

Maybe @Techwhiz1 can provide it.

I guess I can once I get the car.
I can record a video and/or provide some detailed instructions.

What I've read so far seems okay, but lacks how you remove the airbag. If it's removed like my E90 you have two dimples that you can feel on the back side of the steering wheel and you use a long screw driver to push and release one side at a time. Then it's one connector to remove the airbag.

 

[Technic]

 

[FreshxDough]

Disconnecting the battery on the i4 has a very specific procedure:

- Find flap on right-side of trunk, remove
View attachment 20971

- Look for red tab (3) on fusebox:
View attachment 20972

- Pull red tab out - disconnect 12V battery from HV - and lock:

- Check message on display - confirm 12V battery disconnection:
View attachment 20973

- Disconnect negative post from 12V battery under hood:
View attachment 20974

To reconnect 12V to HV battery, follow steps in reverse.
-

If you are unsure that you can follow these instructions then it means that you need a professional installer to install your parts.

You're missing the most important step of all, making sure HV is not active before you pull the HV disconnect... Or else you're going to be performing a hard shutdown which is not good for longevity of DC switch contactors in HV safety box. Car needs to be asleep before disconnect. Every time you disconnect.

 

[NickNorth11]

@larbel do you happen to remember how you broke the front of the shifter cover free? There seems to be a clip there that I can't release.

 

[FreshxDough]

@larbel do you happen to remember how you broke the front of the shifter cover free? There seems to be a clip there that I can't release.

View attachment 25624

It’s the worst. There’s two clips that are extremely hard to release

 

[NickNorth11]

It’s the worst. There’s two clips that are extremely hard to release

Any tips? I spent 20 minutes trying and couldn't get it. I thought I was going to break it. I eventually gave up.

 

[Technic]

Any tips? I spent 20 minutes trying and couldn't get it. I thought I was going to break it. I eventually gave up.

Check the removal trick at the 7:00min mark:

 

[NickNorth11]

The link that was posted online for the M1 and M2 buttons/harness took me to a page that was the module only (despite the picture showing the buttons as well) and didn't include buttons. I just repurchased it and I'm hoping this is the correct kit. @larbel, can you verify that this is what you bought?

 

[larbel]

Looks to be correct, but it's way too expensive given that it looks like it's aftermarket buttons and cover... The module itself should be around $70, and the OEM buttons with cover should be around $150. This is what I have...

 

[larbel]

...

 

[Technic]

The link that was posted online for the M1 and M2 buttons/harness took me to a page that was the module only (despite the picture showing the buttons as well) and didn't include buttons. I just repurchased it and I'm hoping this is the correct kit. @larbel, can you verify that this is what you bought?
View attachment 26346

My kit was from the ARDOX store at AliExpress - way cheaper than this.

And yes, OEM buttons and cover are a must with these kits.

 

[NickNorth11]

I also bought the OEM buttons and top trim piece from the link posted earlier in this thread. I couldn't see a picture of the OEM buttons to compare, so I wasn't sure what else was needed. (I haven't received anything in the mail yet to be able to see if I've got duplicates of stuff.) The module linked to earlier in this thread is $160 by itself. Where can I find the module for $70? And if I buy that alone, does that include the parts that go in the steering wheel as well as the shifter console?

 

[larbel]

Just for the record, looks like ISTA or code reader can pick up the module and produce an error code. Everything is working and the code can be cleared, but it will return from time to time.

 

[Fayt349]

Got the following installed today...

OEM M1 M2 button + retrofit kit
OEM Carbon fiber steering cover
M Performance carbon shifter (DIY gel coated)
OEM rear fender trims
Advance eye 3.0 Pro

Day shot before the install...
View attachment 19694

M1 M2 with the retrofit kit worked like a charm Switching between all the diving modes like it should, it came with additional functions like, seats moving back at ignition off and auto window closure when ignition off, I didn't like those function but it can be programmed off.
View attachment 19695 View attachment 19696 View attachment 19697 View attachment 19698
View attachment 19699 View attachment 19701

I have the Eibach springs already, but can't lower the car just yet because don't want to deal with possible warranty issue, will have to wait till after the first service. And can only access the suitable spacers then...
View attachment 19702

The M1 M2 retrofit kit requires you to take apart the OEM buttons and replace the PCB inside, and the PCB is attached to a wireless transmitter fitted into the steering wheel. And then you'll need to remove the shifter console cover and add a piggyback receiver module to the driving mode buttons. So basically, it's a 100% harmless but yet very functional mod. Highly recommended!

BMW G30 : M1/M2 BUTTONS RETROFIT (FULLY FUNCTIONAL) - YouTube

Is this youtube video the same as what you did? For them it says G30 so that's why I'm worried of any differences if I follow it

 

[larbel]

BMW G30 : M1/M2 BUTTONS RETROFIT (FULLY FUNCTIONAL) - YouTube

Is this youtube video the same as what you did? For them it says G30 so that's why I'm worried of any differences if I follow it

Exact same thing, like I said, there's only one module available. But 1) The guy is using aftermarket M1/M2 buttons so he didn't have to swap the PCBs and 2) For i4, you HAVE TO disconnect the HV/12V prior to any of these..

 

[Fayt349]

To be more specific, if you get the module with the chinese made M buttons, then the PCB on the transmitter is built into the buttons already, there's no need to swap anything. It's only when you get the OEM M buttons like I did, then, you'll need to swap out the OEM PCB inside the buttons with the PCBs on the transmitter. The module itself, comes with the transmitter with buttons' PCBs, and the receiver with harness.

And here's the OEM carbon steering wheel cover BMW M Performance Carbon fiber steering wheel trim - BMW G80, G82, G20, G21, G22, G26 - paddleshifterz.com But there's also aftermarket ones for like 1/4th of the price, I got the OEM coz it's right in your face and not something you should cheap out on IMO...

If I have edrive40, I don't have a GAP at the bottom of the wheel, does this mean this trim won't work. Or if I replace the trim with this will I just have an m50 trim now

 

[Technic]

If I have edrive40, I don't have a GAP at the bottom of the wheel, does this mean this trim won't work. Or if I replace the trim with this will I just have an m50 trim now

The “gap” is in the actual sport steering wheel - regardless of e40 or M50. What covers the “gap” is the e40 trim piece, so using an M50 trim piece the “gap” will be exposed.

This is an e40 sport wheel (DAPP and heat):

Lower trim: